Honest answers · Comparison
Brick or steel

A brick kitchen or a steel one

We build steel kitchens. So we'll start with what brick does better, and finish with where we lose. If you choose brick after reading this, then brick is what you needed.

The short answer

If you want a single masonry volume that matches the house, you have a good bricklayer, and you plan to change nothing for twenty years — build in brick. If what matters is appliances that fit exactly, a module you can replace, how the structure behaves in an earthquake and a written warranty on the object itself — buy steel. And there is a third answer, the one we build most often: a masonry volume outside, a steel working run inside it.

1 · Where brick is genuinely better

Five things brick does better than we do

2 · What brick costs you here

What an Almaty winter and Almaty ground do to it

None of this is an argument against masonry as such. It is what happens to outdoor masonry in a climate with a full freeze cycle, in a seismic city — and it is what most often has to be repaired.

3 · What steel gives you

What we stand behind

Factory precision instead of fitting on site. The body is cut and welded to the drawing, and the aperture for an appliance is made to its real dimensions rather than to roughly that. And you choose the appliances: cooktops, ovens, sinks, taps, dishwashers, fridges — your brands, our apertures.

About the seams, straight away. You'll hear that modular kitchens leak at the joints. That's true of kit systems bolted together from ready-made boxes on site. We weld the body rather than assemble it: the seam is welded closed, the edges are flanged, and water runs off the outside instead of into the join. In stainless and in powder-coated steel that's a normal detail, not a weak point.

In an earthquake this is a frame, not masonry. A steel body anchored to the slab behaves as a frame: it can deform, but it doesn't come apart into separate stones.

  • 304 stainless — real Turkish steel, stronger than the cheap Chinese stock many fabricators use. Or powder-coated steel if you want black.
  • The body isn't timber and is engineered for high-temperature zones — which is why the kitchen can also go in an enclosed room, with commercial ventilation.
  • Restaurant-grade ventilation in any length built for the project — what masonry solves with a flue, and solves noticeably worse.
  • It wipes down in a minute. One continuous non-porous surface, no mortar and no masonry joints: grease and soot have nowhere to soak in and nowhere to collect. A brick joint absorbs and darkens over the years, and there is no washing that back out.
  • The combinations are effectively unlimited. We cut and weld to drawing: the length of the run, the set of modules, stainless or black powder coat, a countertop in steel, granite or thermo-slab, karagach fronts. We've never built the same kitchen twice.
  • The guarantees are written into the contract: steel 3 years, 2 years unconditional on installation work, 30 days to clear every snag, and 14 days to give it back.
A GrillKing 304 stainless kitchen with restaurant-grade ventilation in a yard outside Almaty
4 · Where steel loses

Honestly: what we don't have

How it gets decided in practice

Three situations, three different answers

A stone house, a yard for the long run

Brick — but with a reinforced footing below frost depth and with the seismics actually calculated. Save on the base and you lose the kitchen.

You cook seriously, with real appliances

Steel. Apertures cut to your appliances, a module swapped instead of masonry demolished, and ventilation that genuinely pulls.

An enclosed pavilion or a winter room

Steel. The body isn't timber and is built for high temperatures, and the ventilation is commercial grade.

Most often the right answer is both. A masonry volume outside so the yard reads as one piece, and a steel working run inside it. We fabricate to drawing, so building into someone else's masonry is a normal job for us — several of our projects are exactly that.

What next?